Tourist in My Own State: Connecticut’s Old State House

Why is it that “tourist” destinations are only interesting to us if we are traveling somewhere far away to see them? Maybe it’s because we think we will get to it “one day” since it’s so close by. I am determined to spend time going forward visiting some of our local historic treasures and I had just the opportunity last week.

I was running an errand to the Social Security office in Hartford and (expecting a looooong wait) I paid for an hour of parking. Surprisingly, I was done in less than fifteen minutes (a pleasant experience I might add!) so given the lovely weather I went on a stroll.

My walk brought me to Connecticut’s Old State House, which is currently covered in scaffolding for exterior restoration (thanks to Old State House staff for the above image!) but the promise of a tour of the interior beckoned.

Mid-afternoon on a Tuesday in September isn’t a high traffic time, so I received a private tour with Nicole Sousa, the Museum Educator. There is so much history to absorb in a structure that was first used by local government in 1796.

The Old State House was one of two state houses in Connecticut at the time, the other being in New Haven. Credited to architect Charles Bulfinch of Boston (that guy got around!) and built-in the Federal style, the current State House now reflects various eras throughout the years.

The exterior remains largely as it was, although the archway entry is now enclosed. It used to be completely open with large iron gates on either side. The interior housed the Executive Offices, the Courtroom, the Senate and the House of Representatives.

A stunning grand staircase, added to the interior in the 20th century, leads to the gilt-covered wooden statue of Lady Justice which sat atop the State House cupola starting in 1827 until it was moved inside for preservation 149 years later. A fiberglass replica replaced the original.

The courtroom is used primarily for events today but retains its beautiful moldings and other period details such as Doric columns placed ten feet from the wall that help support the representative’s chamber above. The famous Amistad trial was held here in 1839 and I could almost visualize the proceedings.

Moving through the building into the Senate Chamber, I was dazzled by the space which is restored to its original appearance. The thirty foot ceiling reaches into the third story, and banks of windows let in natural light which plays off of the brilliant yellow walls. Countless architectural details make this a special space, as does the furniture.

The table, a replica made from original specifications, is surrounded by 18 chairs, the number of senators at the time, 11 of them original. Each seat at the table has its own drawer as this served as the senator’s desk when in session.

Overseeing the proceedings is an oversized portrait of George Washington, painted by noted portraitist at the time Gilbert Stuart (visit his birthplace in Rhode Island). And no, George didn’t sleep here!

Across the hall from the Senate is the House Chamber which is equally impressive, also with sky-high ceilings and over twenty windows. It is restored to its 18th century splendor with soft peach walls and original decorative stenciling intact. The room held 175 representatives at one point in time which is more than we have in Connecticut today.

An unexpected surprise is the room on the second floor containing a representation of Rev. Joseph Steward’s “Curiosity Room”. Rev. Steward was given space in the Old State House in 1796 for use as a portrait studio. From there he took the liberty of establishing a “Curiosity Room” on the third floor with unique treasures from around the globe.

Visiting such a room would have been the only opportunity for most people to see such things, and it became so popular that he eventually relocated to a building across the street to open a full-fledged Museum of Curiosities.

I was fascinated with the displays, composed of actual artifacts and replicas of items advertised at the time. The two-headed calf (not pictured) is a must see!

After thanking Nicole and taking a quick peek in the gift shop which has books and locally made items, I started moving back towards my car. On the way I was distracted by the storefront of Hartford Prints. What a find!

Started by three sisters in 2009, the shop carries a line of custom letterpress stationery, as well as other items with a local theme. Any Connecticut resident or visitor would appreciate something from here. You can shop their products on Etsy, too!

These flasks caught my eye as something Mark Twain would have found quite funny. I snapped up a journal with a letterpress map of downtown Hartford on it. Perhaps to record my visits to other Connecticut “tourist” attractions!

I’ll leave you with a shot of the Old State House at night. There is something about the light glowing through all those windows that is just so striking. Please take the time to visit this National Historic Landmark. There is so much to see and learn! When you do, let me know what you think!